Start your own epic saga T he Finnish capital is a lively city, with plenty to offer visitors at any time of year. This largely neoclassical, 19th- century city of roughly half a million residents lies on the southern coast, ringing the natural harbour of the Gulf of Finland. Its an easy city to navigate and most major attractions are within walking distance. Have a gander Start on the Esplanadi Boulevard its a long leafy promenade lined with boutiques and cafs lying close to the museum quarter, Helsinkis traditional cultural heart. Stroll down the Esplanadi to the South Harbours Market Square, where everything is perfumed by the salty sea breezes. Here, you can grab a picnic lunch at one of the food stalls at the Old Market Hall and choose something smoked from reindeer meat to local salmon. Then hop on a ferry to Suomenlinna Fortress, an 18th- century complex stretching over six tiny archipelago islands where you can relax with a picnic, or rent a boat and sail around the harbour islands. The 250-year-old fortress, which has been preserved intact because of its military use, is today part of the world heritage and in 1991, made it on to the Unesco World Heritage List. But most importantly, leave yourself time to return to the city to enjoy a hot and steamy sauna session. Although most locals argue about their favourite saunas, the Kotiharjun Sauna is one of the last of the public, wood-heated kind where epic-size logs lie in piles next to the blazing furnace. Shop till you drop The Design Districts truest anchor is Uudenmaankatu Street, a fusion of art, fashion, and music. Just as distinctly Helsinki is the districts popular Secco shop whose motto is the treasures of the wasteland where the Finnish vigour for recycling gives shape to purses made from old car tires and laptop keyboard keyrings. Or try Rose Living, a tiny boutique crammed with candy-coloured goblets, Mexican oilcloth rugs, and purses and slippers popping with plastic flowers. All this creative energy, though, isnt evolving in a vacuum, and thats obvious back on the Esplanadi, where the stores showcase classic Finnish designs that have become iconic. At the flagship shop of Artek, Alvar Aaltos fluid, birch wood furniture looks as fresh as ever, and at Marimekko, made popular by Jackie Kennedy in the 1960s, the fabrics and accessories still come printed with their own bright bursts of colour. Dining Out Putting Helsinki on the culinary map is the Restaurant Ilmatar, in the Klaus K hotel (Bulevardi 2/4; tel: 00 358 20 770 4714), where dishes such as a slow-roasted pork loin roused by sweet figs, grilled pike with horseradish Hollandaise, and an espresso parfait dribbled with dandelion syrup will make you cry with joy. In a hungry town, though, this is just the start. Because at Havis (00 358 96 128 5800), a restaurant noted for plates of seafood fresh from the Finnish gulf, the choice really is limitless. Restaurant George, located in the heart of the city, is a classic place that mixes French and Scandinavian cuisine and features a tasty three-course lunch offered midweek. For pure romance, its hard to beat Nokka (tel: 00 358 96 877 330), where flaming torches frame the door of the converted harbour-side brick warehouse, and dishes like breast of snowgrouse with cloudberry chutney sound like pure Nordic poetry. Lodgings A truly mythical hotel, just east of the Esplanadi, is the Klaus K (tel: 00 358 20 770 4700; www.klaushotel. com), where the theme is inspired by the Finnish epic saga, the Kalevala. The romance is subtly evoked by the hotels gleaming white oval reception desk, and a palette of rustic browns and golds. If thats too natural for you, head just off Esplanadi park and check in to the very plush Hotel Kmp (tel: 00 358 96 128 5800; www.hotelcamp.com), first opened in 1887 and recently, lovingly restored with lots of drapes, oversize neo-classical furniture and marble bathrooms. The bigger suites feature the ultimate Helsinki amenity: an in- room sauna. A good bargain alternative is the Sokos Hotel Vaakuna (tel: 00 358 20 1234 600; www.sokoshotels.fi), which opened in 1952 for the Helsinki Summer Olympics, and evokes the best of mid-20th-century modern design with its bright red and blue textiles, and big picture windows overlooking the city. A Night on the Town In the evening, the Kallio district is the liveliest part of town. Order a glass of the local Lapin Kulta beer in the relaxed surroundings of Soul Kitchen (17) at Fleminginkatu 26-28 (tel: 00 358 97 732 233; www.soul kitchen.fi) and if you want to make a night of it, there are plenty of other bars and clubs to choose from here. Getting there Aer Lingus has daily flights to Helsinki (tel: 0818 365 000; www. aerlingus.com). On arrival, two bus services run to the city, the regular bus and the Finnair city bus. Taxis to the city centre cost around 30 and take half an hour. www.visitfinland.com metro extralife OutofOfficeToadvertise tel:(01)6375979 18 metrolifeextra Tuesday, August 4, 2009 DEALS OF THE WEEK Helsinki: Theres more to Finland than wife-carrying contests, writes JOANNE OCONNOR as she travels to the Finnish capital Budget Travel Seat Sale Spain: Malaga 249pp Algarve: Faro 249pp Greece: Crete, Corfu, Zakynthos 279pp Canaries: Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, Tenerife, Fuerteventura 279pp Cyprus: Larnaca 299pp Bulgaria: Bourgas 279pp Turkey: Bodrum 270pp September escorted tours Magical Medley: Eight-day tour taking in Malaga, Ronda, Axarquia, Costa Del Sol and Morocco (Tangier). Price: 690 includes hotel on half board basis, flights and tours. Discover Andalucia: Eight-day tour taking in Ronda, Seville, Granada, Costa Del Sol. Price: 690 includes hotel on half board basis, flights and tours. Contact: Tel: (01) 631 1077. www.budgettravel.ie Trailfinders The Golden Triangle: India six days/five nights effort-free private touring from 1,039. Visits Delhi, Agra (Taj Mahal) and Jaipur. Includes hotels, five breakfasts, all transport in an air- conditioned car, tours and entrance fees and an English speaking guide. Flights are with Jet Airways from Dublin (via London) to Delhi. Exclusive to Trailfinders: Enjoy a complimentary dance show and dinner in Delhi, lunch at Laxmi Villas Palace and an upgrade from a standard to a larger car. Valid for departures now to Sep 30. Contact: Tel: (01) 677 7888. www.trailfinders.ie Last minute deals Destination: Worldwide Beach Hotels Price: Up to 50 per cent off worldwide beach hotels Details: Grab your flip-flops and jet off to a beach hotel across the pond, sea or ocean. Take advantage of the great value beach hotel deals from luxury to budget, to all-inclusive and plenty more in between available with lastminute.com. This sale ends on Aug 23 and has beach hotels on offer in the UK, Europe, US, Caribbean and Australia. Log on to: www.lastminute.com Feathered Finns: Traditional images of Finland focus on folk festivities, such as this couple dancing outside the cathedral in Helsinki index.html2.html3.html4.html5.html6.html7.html8.html9.html10.html11.html12.html13.html14.html15.html16.html17.html18.html19.html20.html21.html22.html23.html